After visiting Akbar's marvelous (and void of tourists) Fatephur Sikri early on Friday morning, we got a local bus back to Agra then tried to arrange a train back to Delhi. The office at the train station, however, sold only second class tickets. They said that we could upgrade on the coach.
When our train pulled into the station, a mad dash of young men ran along the platform to literally jump on the still moving 2nd class coaches, which were packed to the gills (and had no AC). What to do? We searched the long 15+ car train for the AC carriages, which of course were on the farthest end of the platform from where we stood.
When we found the nicer class of train cars, we soon discovered that no seats were available. After deliberation, we remained on the train (the first scene from "Ghandi" popped into my head). We found an upper hearth bed in an AC sleeper carriage that was windowless and used to store blankets. The man below allowed us to store our bags below his bed, and we crammed ourselves next to the blankets, side by side, hunched over cross legged for the three hour trip to Delhi. We awaited eviction or fine from the conductor. It never came, just a few strange looks from the paying first class customers.
Here we are in peaceful south Delhi, with a full day taxi hire planned for a few more sights and shopping on our last full day. Humayan's Tomb awaits!
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