Pretty much everything bad about India is present in Delhi. Loud, smelly, with most Indians you have to deal with trying to rip you off. But the Red Fort is pretty amazing.
The one day layover was brutal and we did not sleep but none of that seemed to matter when we arrived over the Himalayas in Leh in the Ladakh region. The altitude was immediately noticeable but the town's inhabitants (cousins of the Tibetans) immediately came across as the most easy going we found in India.
Since arrival, we've climbed to the Palace and the nearby stupa and just got back from an overnight in the Shyok river valley close to the border with Pakistan. The town we spent the night in has actually changed hands several times over the years between the two countries.
Now back in Leh and off again for another overnight tomorrow.
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